When renowned chef, long-time Food Network star, and barbecue expert Bobby Flay seeks a great steak in New York City (unless he opts to whip up a perfectly cooked steak himself), he heads to Wolfgang’s Steakhouse on Park Avenue in Manhattan.
Flay and his daughter, Sophie, featured Wolfgang’s on an installment of their Food Network show “The Flay List.” During the episode, Flay tells Sophie he skips the menu since he knows exactly what to ask for: chopped salad, onions and tomatoes, shrimp cocktail, creamed spinach, German-style hash-brown potatoes, and the porterhouse steak.
“That’s the beauty of a classic steakhouse meal — it’s uncomplicated and impeccably done,” Flay remarks in the episode (via Amazon Prime). He elaborates that the salads and shrimp cocktail serve as the “warmup” for the real highlight: the sizzling cuts of dry-aged Prime beef delivered so hot to your table that they’re still cooking.
“You can hear the juices of the steak sizzling on the plate’s edge, and then you have the creamed spinach and the potatoes — it all pairs perfectly,” Flay shares. “It’s a serious eat — it’s one of my all-time favorite meals.”
Which Wolfgang are we talking about?
You might assume the Wolfgang referenced here is celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck, known for numerous dining establishments, including esteemed steakhouses like the acclaimed Cut in New York. However, that’s not the case.
Wolfgang’s Steakhouse is actually founded by Wolfgang Zwiener, who was a former head waiter at Brooklyn’s Peter Luger’s, one of New York City’s most famous steakhouses. Zwiener dedicated years to Luger’s before launching his own restaurant in 2004.
The two Wolfgangs found themselves in a trademark dispute after Zwiener’s success on Park Avenue led him to open a location in Beverly Hills, merely blocks away from one of Puck’s establishments. Although Zwiener won the legal battle and now operates multiple locations in NYC, New Jersey, Massachusetts, Hawaii, and several countries in Asia, the Beverly Hills venue ultimately shut down.
Wolfgang’s is renowned among national chains for offering top-tier beef in just four cuts — ribeye, porterhouse, New York sirloin, and filet mignon — all graded USDA prime, dry-aged on-site, and expertly carved by the in-house butcher. The original location at 4 Park Avenue prevailed through the challenges of the COVID-19 pandemic and continues to be the flagship. The restaurant also boasts a beautifully vaulted tiled ceiling designed by Spanish-born architect Rafael Guastavino, one of the few remaining in New York.
The porterhouse is prized for its tenderloin and strip steak combination, providing the best of both worlds.
The porterhouse is a staple item on steakhouse menus because it comprises two cuts of beef in one thick steak, divided by a T-bone. One side features the tenderloin, while the other boasts the strip loin, making it ideal for sharing among diners with varying tastes. The tenderloin, also known as filet mignon, is tender and lean, whereas the strip loin (sometimes referred to as New York strip) is more marbled, offering a richer beef flavor.
This premium porterhouse is considered one of the finest steak cuts, and proper cooking is vital as no chef wants to ruin food — or waste money. Whether grilling or pan-searing, a porterhouse should be a minimum of 1.25 inches thick, making broiling it under high heat, as Wolfgang’s does, an effective method to achieve perfect doneness with an ideal char.
Flay prefers his porterhouse medium-rare — although he once mentioned that he favors steaks (and burgers) cooked medium, as the extra cooking time allows more fat to render, enhancing the meat’s flavor and texture. Remember: a steak will continue to cook after being removed from heat, which is one reason resting meat post-grilling or broiling is essential. Given that Wolfgang’s serves steaks sliced and still sizzling on a hot plate, a medium-rare steak could reach medium doneness by the time you are ready to eat. Just don’t wait too long!