Why a BBQ joint’s quality hinges on its brisket.

Barbecue lovers across the United States are always eager to discuss the virtues of their favorite regional barbecue styles. However, aside from unique specialties and sauces, what’s the best way to tell if a barbecue restaurant is top-notch? To uncover this, we consulted barbecue expert Robbie Shoults, a celebrity chef, the third-generation owner of Bear Creek Smokehouse, and proprietor of the restaurant High Horse 1898 and the historic Marshall Mercantile building.

Shoults revealed that one particular dish can instantly indicate a restaurant’s expertise. “In my opinion, brisket is the ultimate test of barbecue quality. If they can smoke brisket properly, everything else at the restaurant should measure up,” he stated. Brisket is taken from the front section of the cow, situated between the shanks and the chuck cut. It can be bought as a whole beef brisket or in separate cuts: the flat cut and the second cut, also referred to as the deckle.

Brisket is notorious for being tough — both in texture and preparation — which means there are numerous ways to mess it up. Yet Shoults assures that you can usually tell if a restaurant smokes it well just by looking at it — seek out a deep dark bark on the surface and a pink ring encircling the meat just below the blackened layer.

Of course, your palate can also indicate whether a BBQ place knows how to craft the challenging brisket. Robbie Shoults emphasizes that a properly smoked brisket will be bursting with flavor and have a moist, tender texture. However, if you want to avoid paying just to discover if a restaurant is any good, Shoults offers some tips for determining whether to enter. A simple look at the outside can provide clues: “Does the restaurant appear to be emitting smoke?” Shoults inquires. “A genuinely good barbecue joint will likely have smoke billowing out from somewhere!”

A lack of smoke is definitely a warning sign that the food might also lack that desirable smoky flavor. “Another factor to gauge from the outside is the state of the parking lot,” Shoults adds. After all, unless it’s a highly anticipated grand opening, a crowded parking lot at a reputable establishment usually indicates that they are serving quality meals. If you’re visiting a BBQ truck or a compact location without parking, look for long lines instead. In the meantime, if you’re trying to assess from a distance whether to check out a barbecue restaurant, Shoults recommends the tried-and-true tactic of exploring online reviews and ratings.

Beyond Robbie Shoults’ helpful suggestions, there are other strategies for assessing whether your experience at a barbecue restaurant is likely to be satisfying. If you’re already checking out review sites, consider visiting the restaurant’s page to examine their menu. While it’s essential to see what dishes they offer, you can also gain valuable insights into the expected quality.

Check if the meats and ingredients are locally sourced, and whether the menu primarily focuses on barbecue. If the kitchen is preoccupied with a long list of other items, the barbecue — which requires a great deal of attention and time — may be compromised. A restaurant that dedicates itself mainly to perfecting smoked meats is likely a better option.

If you’re traveling or have moved to a new area, take Anthony Bourdain’s advice on finding dining spots and ask locals. Whether you strike up a conversation with a bartender for recommendations, scroll through magazines with local food critics’ reviews, or hunt for buzz on social media, fellow diners can lead you to cherished barbecue joints known for their aromatic smoke and perfectly crafted brisket.